Buying Parts for your Hot Rod Project

March 5th, 2010

Part 1 – eBay

An important part of building a hot rod, street rod, custom car, or rat rod, is the ability to find parts.  Finding a good deal on parts is always important.  Well where do you start?  You could always keep an eye out in your local newspaper and you never know what you can find.  Finding parts is getting easier to do now and with the popularity of the internet.  There are all kinds of sites on the internet that specialize with selling new and used parts.  You can actual build a hot rod by simply ordering everything you need over the internet.

 One place to go is eBay.  I personally have bought many parts this way.  There will be always be a multitude of parts available, both new and used available on eBay.  Keep in mind when buying, that there might be a foreign exchange in currency, and shipping/handling charges.  Often, if you are importing parts, taxes and brokerage fees should be considered as an added cost to the item. 

 I can remember early on in my career with buying parts on eBay, I bought a set of automotive VDO gauges that I thought would work good in one of my projects.  I bought the part for under $30 USD.  Shipping was about $15 USD.  When the item arrived at the door, FedEx wanted another $35 CAD for taxes and a brokerage fee.  If I didn’t pay it, I was not getting the part.  I felt ripped off.  FedEx claims this is a fee so they can forward the taxes on the item to the government.  So, the good deal I thought I was getting was no deal at all.  The lesson I learned from this is that I do not order anything from outside of Canada unless the sellers will ship the item via the postal system.  About 50% of the time, items arrive at that door without any extra fees.  Many items have to be picked up at the post office or postal outlet, and I only need to pay the taxes on the declared value of the item.  That seems fair to me. 

 When you have decided to bid on an item, do not bid too early.  Doing this just increases the price of the item unnecessarily.  Sellers on eBay like this.  Decide before you make your bid what the item is worth to you and do not cross that line.  This prevents you from over bidding.  Remember, bidding has nothing to do with being macho and being out done by an opponent.  Auctions count on this.  Bid as close to the auction closing time as possible.  Many bidders wait to do this.  This prevents bidding wars between opponents.  I often wait till the last 60 seconds of the auction closing time to make a bid.  At that point in time I make one bid only.  I make a bid on the item with a price that I feel is appropriate for the item.  The odd time I loose, but most often win the item.  Many bidders will fool around by only increasing the item price by the minimum amount set by eBay and does not work so close to the auction closing time. 

Always make sure what your shipping costs will be.  If the seller does not offer shipping through the post office, ask before bid to see if they will ship via the post office.  Most often they will.  Do a bit of research on the items you want before you bid.  I always look at the similar items to see what they have been sold for under the completed sales section of the eBay search. 

 Last of all, make sure you are buying from a reputable seller.  Look at their eBay rating and feedback ratings to see if there will be any problems.  I have seen many times fake listings.  For example, there might be a 1963 Corvette in mint condition up for auction with a “Buy it Now” price of $6000 USD.  First ask yourself if this even makes sense.  If it doesn’t make sense, do not bid.  Often these types of listings occur using a high-jacked eBay account and the item does not really exist.  If you ask any questions about the car, you will get responses like: the car is in storage in some foreign country and will be shipped to your port of destination for you to pick up once payment is received and confirmed.  Many times the seller will want you to pay using Western Union, bank wire transfer, etc….   If a deal is too good to be true, it most likely it is.  I’m not saying there are not any good deals to be found on eBay, but it is BUYER BEWARE and common sense must prevail.

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Placing the engine for the 1929 Model “A” Ford Roadster Hot Rod – Part 2

February 26th, 2010

Placing the engine for the 1929 Model “A” Ford Roadster Hot Rod – Part 2

Figuring out the location of the engine and transmission in the 1929 Ford Roadster Hot Rod was a bit of a challenge.  The Model A Ford Roadster does not have a spacious interior.  I am 6’ – 4” tall and need leg room when sitting in the car.  Many hot rodders will cut out and have about a 4” recess in the firewall to make room for the engine.  Modifying the firewall was not an option for me.  Originally, I started the design of my Hot Rod chassis using the 1931 Ford 5 window coupe body.  Everything seemed to work out better with 1931 Ford being a slightly larger car.  I could have even used the original aluminum driveshaft from the 1986 Corvette.  It was like the C4 Corvette components were intentionally designed to be used in the Model A Ford!   Now I had to move the engine forward to clear the firewall of the 1929 Ford Hot Rod roadster. 

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 1 -  This is bolt to the front of a small block Chevy engine.  The bolt holes on the engine are located to either side of the timing cover.

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 1 - This is bolt to the front of a small block Chevy engine. The bolt holes on the engine are located to either side of the timing cover.

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 2 - This illustrates the side profile of the motor mount.

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 2 - This illustrates the side profile of the motor mount.

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 3 - These are the mounts that would be welded to the inside of the frame rails.  A basic rubber mount is used.

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 3 - These are the mounts that would be welded to the inside of the frame rails. A basic rubber mount is used.

My first motor mount was of a style that bolted to the front of the engine and had same inside width of the chassis.  I made this motor mount out of ¼” steel plate and made up small brackets that I could weld to the inside of the frame rails.  At first, this looked like a good option.  With the motor mount at the front of the engine, I would have a bit more clearance for the original 1986 Corvette headers and exhaust.  Remember, one of my goals with this project was to use as much of the 1986 Corvette as possible in this build.  This included the exhaust.  As I continued on with the project, I started to realize this style of motor mount would not work well for me.  The 1929 Ford roadster body was mounted temporarily on the frame.  I also mounted the 1986 Corvette steering column and the shaft from the steering column to the steering rack.  At that point I realized the front style motor mount would not work.  I steering column shaft would not clear the front motor mount. 

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 4 - This show a how how motor mount is attached to the front of the small block Chevy Corvette engine

1929 Ford Hot Rod front engine mount version 1 - view 4 - This show a how how motor mount is attached to the front of the small block Chevy Corvette engine

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount prior to installation.  This is made using 1/4" steel plate on the base and 2"x2" square tubing.  This was all cut out using a metal band saw.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount prior to installation. This is made using 1/4" steel plate on the base and 2"x2" square tubing. This was all cut out using a metal band saw.

When I designed and built the front motor mount, I also made up a set of traditional style motor mounts for the side of the engine at the same time.  It was the side motor mounts that I ended up using.  There would be no issues with the steering shaft now and along the way, I decided to change the exhaust system.  I ended up purchasing Patriot Exhaust Sprint Style Weld-Up Header Kit.  I will have an exhaust section later on in this Blog with details on the complete exhaust system, including a baffles and side pipes.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount view 1 - Just a trail fit.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount view 1 - Just a trail fit.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount on the sbc engine.  This is the final version of engine mount used.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount on the sbc engine. This is the final version of engine mount used.

Being a rather creative person, I thought my hot rod would look neat if the front coil over shocks could be mounted inside the frames rails.  This would be similar to the suspension found on the Plymouth Prowlers and Indy style race cars.  With the body on the chassis, I moved the engine and transmission forward enough to clear the firewall.  It was then I wished that the frame was about 6” longer.  There was not enough room between the pulleys on the front of the engine and at radiator for inboard coil over shocks.  As a result, the idea of Indy style inboard front coil over shocks would have to be abandoned.   The next hot rod I build will have a longer frame to allow for this type of suspension.  It would make a very clean looking independent front suspension system.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount with the steering shaft.  The steering shaft just clears the motor mount.

1929 Ford Hot Rod side engine mount with the steering shaft. The steering shaft just clears the motor mount.

The bonus of moving the engine forward enough to clear the 1929 Ford roadster firewall was that I would not need much of a transmission tunnel in the floor of the car.  This will create the needed leg room for me.

1929 Ford Hot Rod finished frame motor mount

1929 Ford Hot Rod finished frame motor mount

1929 Ford Hot Rod motor mounted in the chassis complete with headers.  This is the setup I settled with.

1929 Ford Hot Rod motor mounted in the chassis complete with headers. This is the setup I settled with.

The front style of motor mount was not needed anymore, so I cleaned it up a bit, painted it black and listed it on eBay.  It sold in the week and bought in a price of over $100 for me.

Come back next week for more building information on this 1929 Ford Hot Rod.

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