Posts Tagged ‘C4 Corvette hot rod suspension’

Chassis / Frame Design for the 1928 to 31 Model “A” Ford Street Rod – Part 4

Saturday, December 19th, 2009

Chassis / Frame Design for the 1928 to 31 Model “A” Ford Street Rod – Part 4 

With the new steel at home in the shop it was time to formulate a plan for the construction of my new chassis.  I thought that I would start out easy and duplicate the shape of the front frame rails.  Using the original 1928 – 31 Ford Model A frame / chassis, I traced the pattern of the front frame horns onto a piece of scrap ¼” plexi-glass. This template was almost 3 feet long.  At the time, I felt it would be a good idea to have templates for every bracket and shape I designed for the chassis.  This will save me time if I would like to build another car using the same suspension concept.  The pattern was then cut out on a stationary scroll saw I have in the shop.  Having acquired a full wood shop over the years has a few advantages or benefits towards the build process of my street rod. 

 

1928 - 31 Model A Ford front frame / chassis template pattern to transfer to the 2" x 4" rectangular steel tubing

1928 - 31 Model A Ford front frame / chassis template pattern to transfer to the 2" x 4" rectangular steel tubing

The template duplicating the front end of the original 1928 – 31 Ford Model A frame / chassis was then placed onto the end of each long section of the 2” x 4” rectangular tubing tracing out the pattern.  At the time I did not have my plasma cutter and I needed to figure out how to cut this shape out with some level of accuracy.  Using my angle grinder equipped with a very thin cut off wheel, I very carefully cut the shape out on the sides of the rectangular tubing.  This took a bit of time, but I had no other options for this task.  I used the cut off wheel to slowly score through the steel tubing with a final desired shape of the frame rail.  Once this was completed, I boxed in the openings on the top and bottom of the frame rails with 1/8” steel plate.  In the end, the finished corners edges had the same rounded contour shape as the original 2” x 4” steel rectangular tubing.

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 1 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis.  This is showing the riser or kick up of the frame rear section.  A 4" kick up was perfect for my appliction.  The rounded edge of the tubing allowed for a very heavy and deep weld that was ground even with the side edge of the frame for a very clean and even look.

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 1 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis. This is showing the riser or kick up of the frame rear section. A 4" kick up was perfect for my appliction. The rounded edge of the tubing allowed for a very heavy and deep weld that was ground even with the side edge of the frame for a very clean and even look.

It then came time to set up the two frame rails on the shop floor using axle stands and small blocks of wood for shims.  Both frame rails were levelled off using the laser level and balancing the diagonal corner measurements.  To help with this, I drilled small 1/8” holes in the center of the rectangular tubing at each end of the frame rails.  This became a constant point of reference to make sure everything was level and square.  Once this was completed, I used some scrap angle iron and welded several pieces across the width of the frame to keep everything in place.  My two most important measurements were the width of the frame along the centre line of the front axle and the width of the rear differential carrier mounts.

 

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 2 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis.  This is the initial view of the rear of the frame.  I ended up making it slightly too long and later shorter the length of the frame so it.  This change will allow the 1931 Ford coupe body to fit nicely over the frame / chassis rails.

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 2 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis. This is the initial view of the rear of the frame. I ended up making it slightly too long and later shorter the length of the frame so it. This change will allow the 1931 Ford coupe body to fit nicely over the frame / chassis rails.

The outside frame width at the center line point for the front axle center will be slightly wider than the stock 1928 – 31 Ford Model A frame / chassis.  The width will be the same as taken from the original C4 Corvette front cross member.  An important point to keep in mind, the design for the C4 Corvette suspension must not change.  Any changes to the suspension design will result in poor handling performance on the street rod or possible disastrous and dangerous operating conditions for the street rod and occupants.  You do not want to be on the 6 o’clock new cast. 

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 3 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis.  This view show the mounting for the C4 Covette stablizer rods or "dog bones".  I used 4" square steel tubing cut to the shape in the picture.  One side of the tube was cut off to make the tube into a channel.  This give me the proper width for the stabilizer or control rods.  The open end of the tube was welded to the side of the frame.  A piece of 2" square tubing was used to created the final mounting bracket for the stabilizer rods.  I used a metal cutting band saw for all of the metal cutting here.

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 3 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis. This view show the mounting for the C4 Covette stablizer rods or "dog bones". I used 4" square steel tubing cut to the shape in the picture. One side of the tube was cut off to make the tube into a channel. This give me the proper width for the stabilizer or control rods. The open end of the tube was welded to the side of the frame. A piece of 2" square tubing was used to created the final mounting bracket for the stabilizer rods. I used a metal cutting band saw for all of the metal cutting here.

After measuring the mounting distance for the C4 Corvette (1986 Corvette convertible) rear differential carrier, I decided on another deviation from the original 1928 – 31 Ford Model A chassis / frame.  The new mounting brackets for the differential carrier will be welded to the outside section of the frame rails.  I designed tear drop brackets and cut them out using 5/16” plate steel.  These brackets required a small notch to be removed from the body frame rails.  I also remove the rear floor panels and one of the rear cross braces on the body.  This will allow the 1931 Ford Model A coupe body to be easily mounted to the new chassis with the new chassis just fitting in between the body rails of the coupe body.  I will explain more on this later, in another section,  on how to strengthen the rear of the body to compensate this modification.  Using this type of chassis design, will not allow the use of a rumble seat.  Again, to make design process easier, I removed all floor and trunk panels on the 1931 Ford Model A coupe body.

 

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 4 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis.  This view shows a cross member tacked in place.  It will provide a mounting location for the center differential carrier housing and add much needed strenght to the 4" kick up on the frame.  It will act as a gusset for the kick up.

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 4 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis. This view shows a cross member tacked in place. It will provide a mounting location for the center differential carrier housing and add much needed strenght to the 4" kick up on the frame. It will act as a gusset for the kick up.

A few more measurements on the length of the chassis frame rails needed to be made.  I discovered that the rear of my new chassis was slightly too long.  The body would not drop over chassis frame rails.  The chassis was hitting the rear of the body frame.   I quickly shortened that rear of my new chassis making it just long enough to keep the frame nicely within the 1931 Ford coupes body  frame rails.

C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 5 for the 1928 - 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis.  This shows the tear drop brackets I made for mounting the C4 Corvette rear suspension unit to the frame.  I perfer heavy and very deep welds and then grind  them smooth for a very finished look.
C4 Corvette rear suspension veiw # 5 for the 1928 – 31 Model A Ford frame / chassis. This shows the tear drop brackets I made for mounting the C4 Corvette rear suspension unit to the frame. I perfer heavy and very deep welds and then grind them smooth for a very finished look.

 

C4 Corvettes (1986 Corvette convertible) use an aluminum support beam that is fastened to the rear of the transmission and the front of the differential.  This would not look too good on a street rod.  Instead, I decided that two new cross members would be used on the chassis.  One cross member for the transmission and another cross member for the differential.  These two cross members would also increase the strength of the new chassis.  I used 2” x 3” rectangular steel tubing for these cross members.  I tack welded the cross member in place for the differential.  The addition of this cross member to the rear of the chassis will also form as a gusset to help strengthen the welds for the rear kick up.  The angles of the transmission and differential carrier are very important.  Both the transmission and differential cannot be mounted straight.  The transmission must be angled downward 3 degrees from horizontal and the pinion on the differential must angled upwards 3 degrees from horizontal.  This will avoid driveline vibration and help preserve your universal joints on the driveshaft.  I will include a section later on with more details on setting up the driveshaft, transmission, and differential.

The next step was to mount the upper and lower control arms to the side of the new chassis.  Now I had a bit of a problem.  The chassis was to narrow.  How would I make the chassis wider to allow the mounting of the rear control arms?  I did not want to use the original mounting brackets.  They were just too ugly and I did not have anything to attach them to.  After a bit of thought, I decided that if I used 4” square steel tubing with one side cut off, that I could mount the rear control arms tastefully to the side of the chassis.  A new set of control arm mounts were designed and constructed from 2” square tubing with the ends rounded and one side cut off.  These mounts will be welded to the 4” square tubing that was already tacked to the side of the frame rails.  Again I matched up the angle for the control arm mounts to the same angle found on the 1986 Corvette convertible donor car.

Please note:  I will be including complete measured drawings and templates for the various sections of this 1928 – 31 Model A Ford Hot Rod frame / chassis to purchase in the very near future. 

Come back next week to see how I created and started the design for adapting the C4 Corvette (1986 Corvette convertible) front suspension to the new 1928 – 31 Ford Model A chassis / frame.

Make sure you bookmark this site to your favourites and come back often to view updates and all kinds of new information.

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Chassis / Frame Design for the 1928 to 31 Model “A” Ford Street Rod – Part 3

Sunday, December 13th, 2009
Chassis / Frame Design for the 1928 to 31 Model “A” Ford Street Rod – Part 3

 

 

Before any suspension is removed from the Corvette, it is a very good idea to record how everything is mounted to the car.  Now with digital cameras, I always take pictures of any demolition, modification, or repair for future reference.  In the case of the Corvette suspension, I recorded on paper the dimensions, angles, and location of all parts mounted to the frame of the car.  I did not have a digital camera then.  You might think you will remember every detail, but I can guarantee that you will forget something important.  It is said that a picture or detailed sketch is worth a thousand words.  I believe this from years of experience.

The first step was to remove the motor and transmission from the car.  Now the front suspension can be removed very easily.  No cutting tools are required for the removal. The front cross member is bolted to the main Corvette frame.  The cross member also has the mounting for the motor mounts.  This is so well designed, that all of the front suspension components are attached to the front cross member with the exception of the upper shock mounts.  I will come out of the car as a complete unit.

It is important not to discard any items from the Corvette.  Every single part removed can be sold.  This is what I did.  I listed many parts on eBay and sold many items locally.  This eventually paid for the car and made me even more money.  I managed to pay for the engine hoist, engine stand, and a new Millar Mig welding machine from the proceeds of this car.  I even put some money in the bank for my next street rod part purchases.  Don’t forget, I still have the Corvette suspension, engine, transmission, and many other parts needed to build my street rod.  I never thought building a street rod was so profitable. 

Next I removed the rear suspension.  Again, everything came out without any difficulty.  Make sure you keep the bolts.  The bolts are all hardened bolts and might be required to mount the suspension in the new Model “A” chassis.  I even removed all of the emergency brake cables, and aluminum brake line splitters.

The front and back sway bars and mounts should to be removed and stored.  One of my main goals in the design of the new Model “A” Ford chassis was to use as many Corvette parts as possible in my street rod.  This makes the long term maintenance of your street rod very simple.  Corvette parts will always be available whereas custom made parts will be hard to replace when items break or wear out.  Some of the custom parts built today might not be available in the future depending who originally made them.

 

C4 Corvette suspension as removed from the 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car convertible.

C4 Corvette suspension as removed from the 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car convertible.

I placed the front and back suspension units on a skid and wheeled them off to my shop.  Now I needed to decide on the details of the chassis design.  I felt that for my first street rod, I would not be too radical in my design.  In some sense, I did select something out of the ordinary by using C4 Corvette suspension on a 1931 Ford Coupe.  This will complicate the design enough and slow down the building process when compared to using traditional parts in a street rod. 

C4 Corvette rear suspension as removed from the 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car convertible.  As few parts need to be replaced due to the accident the car was in.

C4 Corvette rear suspension as removed from the 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car convertible. As few parts need to be replaced due to the accident the car was in.

 

I decided to use the same wheel base of 103 ½” as the original Model “A” Ford for a 1928 to 1931 frame.  The mounting of the rear suspension required a narrower frame width.  It was like the C4 Corvette design engineers considered the Model “A” Ford in their original design applications.  The width of the rear frame rails would be narrow enough to fit between the rear body frame rails.  I would only need to make a slight modification to the body frame rails to facilitate the new suspension and chassis.

C4 Corvette front suspension as removed from the 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car convertible.  Everything will be removed from the front crossmember.  I will use the front crossmember for the basis of my design and measure everything on it.

C4 Corvette front suspension as removed from the 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car convertible. Everything will be removed from the front crossmember. I will use the front crossmember for the basis of my design and measure everything on it.

 

I measured the mounting distance between the upper control arms on the Corvette cross member.  It was slightly wider than the original Model “A” Ford frame.  It is important not to change any part of the original design of the suspension of the Corvette.  Any changes will affect the eventual performance in handling and ride of the street rod.  In some street rod applications, the entire Corvette front cross member can be used as is.  It is not possible for the Model “A” Ford.  I suppose some car builders would say sure no problem, use it as is.  I feel the front of the car would look very ugly and be poorly designed and this option was not for me.  It would be similar to builder using an original Mustang II suspension with the large coil springs.  In a small car like a Model “A” Ford, this will not look good.   Again maybe in larger street rods with the front ends closed in more would this be okay.

C4 Corvette front cross member stripped down and ready to have measurements taken from.  The new street rod cross member will not look anything like this.

C4 Corvette front cross member stripped down and ready to have measurements taken from. The new street rod cross member will not look anything like this.

 

Now I had a basic design concept for the new chassis in place.  The original wheel base would be adequate, and a new width at the center lines of the front and rear suspension was determined.  Now, I needed to buy the steel for the new chassis.

Fortunately, in our town, we have a steel supplier.  I purchased 2” x 4”, 0.1” wall thickness rectangular tubing.  Before my purchase, I completed rough sketch of the new Model “A” Ford chassis.  From my sketch, I calculated how much material was required for the main frame rails, rear of the frame, and the new front cross member.   At the steel supplier, I had them cut two sections of the same length of tubing for my new chassis.  We loaded this into my trailer and headed back home to my shop.

The next phase of the project is to complete a mock up of the new chassis with everything only tack welded.

More to come soon, including pictures of the design process.  Make sure you book mark this site and come back for weekly updates.

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