Posts Tagged ‘Model A Ford Roadster’

A Triumph TR4 Fuel Tank for the 1929 Ford Model A Roadster

Sunday, October 7th, 2012

A Triumph TR4 Fuel Tank for the 1929 Ford Model A Roadster

It has been a bit of time since my last post. Summer just flew by and now we at the start of October in the weekend of the Canadian Thanksgiving holiday. I did manage to attend a few car shows and a couple of automotive swap meets. Even though the weather was great for most of the summer, it seemed that the sky closed in with rain on the major events that I intended to attend. Oh well, there is always next year.

Work on our old Victorian home continues, moving my youngest daughter back home for the summer back in June and then back off to a College 4 hours from home just a few weeks ago. I must say the most taxing part of the summer was with the replacement of our shingles on the roof. The 35 year shingles only lasted 12 years! What’s up with that? The roofers that were contracted for the job this summer presented themselves well to get the contract. The job started off well and over the month of July, yes it took a month to re-roof the house, the job become too much for them. These guys were definitely roofers for a reason as my youngest daughter claimed. These fellows at times looked like a safety commercial on what to do to get hurt, with no respect for their equipment, and no pride in their workmanship during their last week of work. Not only that, I suspect the one fellow was afraid of heights!

As a home custom car builder / hot rodder, there are always so many distractions that seem to interfere with the build of the hot rod. I am more determined now than ever to complete this hot rod, as the completion of the build is so near.

Even though I have not posted anything for a while, work on the 1929 Ford Roadster hot rod has continued. Lately, work on the hot rod has been in the evenings, even if it is for an hour, and on rainy days. It’s amazing what can get completed working this way.
Now the time has come to install the fuel tank. Originally I thought of fabricating a stainless steel tank suitable to my application and hot rod build. Then by accident one day searching around on the internet, I came across a Triumph TR4 fuel tank for sale a few hundred miles from my home. The price was right and shipping was reasonable, so why not? For $100 I now have a fuel tank, chrome quick release filler cap, and rubber grommet for the neck of the fuel filler cap. This sure beats using a very expense sheet of stainless steel and countless hours of fabrication. The idea of mounting the fuel tank behind the seat made a bit of sense, not to mention using the top mounted chrome fuel filler cap also from the Triumph TR4 would look nice. Often, many hot rodders mount the fuel tank in the trunk with the fuel cap access in the trunk. No matter how careful you are when filling the fuel tank, there always seems to be the hint of fuel fumes in the car, something I personally do not like.

One of my goals with the build of the Model A Ford roadster is to optimize the use of space within the hot rod. Having a small fuel tank, one slightly over 11 imperial gallons will not be much of a handicap. Just think of all of the conversions while filling up at a gas station! Besides, my 6 foot 4 inch body would need to be stretched out from the small and tight cockpit of the 1929 Ford roadster hot rod. So, frequent fuel stops will not be a problem for me.

1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 1 1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 2

Installing the fuel tank was one of the more simple things that I have done on the hot rod. Using a bit of 0.75 inch square steel tubing I fabricated a mounting system for the fuel tank. Part of this mounting system is also to provide addition strength to the width of the roadsters body. In some cases, 1928-31 Model A Ford hot rodders use the stock fuel tank in front of the car just behind the firewall. In terms of safety, this might have been okay in the 1930’s when highway speeds were much lower. Just look at how often drivers run stop lights now a days!! Not long ago, that is exactly what happened to a fellow hot rodder, he was t-boned at an intersection by someone running a very red light. His hot rod was totaled in the accident.

1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 3 1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 4

A consideration later on is to use the stock fuel tank on the 1928-31 Model A Ford as a heating duct and installing a small heater radiator and fan in it. A bit of a creature comfort for those cool nights while cruising the open road. Often, many hot rodders cut away the lower part of the stock fuel tank to allow for electrical and brakes. It all boils down to how you wish to build your hot rod.

The 0.75 inch square steel tubing frame has a shape similar to the perimeter of the Triumph TR4 fuel tank. The tank was mounted upwards with about a 4 inch space between the top of the fuel tank and to the underside of the body panel just in front of the trunk lid. The fuel tank also is also parallel to the back of the seat. Once I have more of the car completed I will weld in additional 0.75 inch square tube braces for additional strength for the bottom of the fuel tank frame. The plan is to place the battery on the passenger side of the fuel tank, and the main electrical panel containing the fuses and relays for the hot rod in front of the fuel tank. For this reason I will need to be careful how the final support braces for the fuel will be placed at the bottom of the fuel tank frame.

1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 5 1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 6 1929 Ford roadster fuel tank, installation picture 7

As it worked out, the fuel filter fits perfectly underneath the fuel tank with a line going directly to a Holley electric fuel pump and regulator mounted inches away on the frame.
I have included pictures of the battery, electrical panel, location of the fuel filter and electric fuel pump.

Make sure you come back, as I do plan to update the site more frequently with more information on the build of my 1929 Ford Model A roadster hot rod. You can look forward to, mounting the fuel pump, mounting the transmission cooler, the complete wiring of the hot rod which will include keyless starting, machining engine pulleys and brackets, making the rear trunk lid hinges, finding a seat and creating a unique seat hinged mounting system for the seat, fabricating the headers/side pipes and much, much more.

So much to do in a 24 hour day and it’s no wonder time flies!

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ISO Metric Bubble Flare for Brakes Lines Made Easy

Wednesday, April 27th, 2011
 

 

ISO Metric Bubble Flare for Brakes Lines Made Easy

When you take on the challenge of building your own car, street rod, hot rod, rat rod, or performing your own automobile repairs, the more skills you have, everything becomes simpler.  This is true when working on a house, technology, or anything else.  One of the draw backs if you want to call it that would be the time element.  The more you can do yourself, the project, whatever it might be, takes longer to complete.  The advantage when doing work yourself, there is sense of satisfaction and pride, not to mention a financial saving.  The financial saving is increasingly becoming a large factor when you look at how everyday living expenses are growing.  Just one simple thing, the cost of fuel, both gas and diesel fuel have increased substantially in the last 3 to 4 months.  The increased cost of getting back and forth to work is diverting money for recreation, hobbies, leisure, and all those other non-essential items. 

Growing up without much money and having a father with many skills, I learnt how to do a lot.  This sometimes is a bit of a curse, as everything takes just a bit longer to complete.  As I see it, if you are intending to build a hot rod, why not learn how to do as much on the car as possible.    

Now it’s time for me to install the brake lines on the 1929 Model A Ford roadster hot rod.  There was a few ways I could tackle this job.  I did have a new coil of 3/16” (0.1875”) steel brake tubing but I needed to purchase all of the fittings and straighten the brake line, not mention I would need to make the ISO metric bubble flares.  Another option was to purchase straight pre-made lengths of brake lines with the correct fittings.   This option seemed to make sense but none of the lines would be an exact fit on the 1929 Ford Roadster hot rod.  Not wanting excessive amounts of brake lines on the frame or chassis, I decided that cutting them to the length I required and re-doing the flare was the best path for me.  I am the sort of person that thrives on learning new things.  This curiosity required me to learn how to make the ISO metric bubble flare.

My 1929 Model A Ford roadster hot rod has C4 Corvette suspension removed from a wrecked 1986 Corvette Indy Pace car.  The brake components from this vintage of Corvette use the ISO Metric bubble flare.  A few years ago, I purchased a rather inexpensive double flaring tool kit.  As with most things, especially with tools, you get what you pay for.  This kit was okay for making a single flare, but inverted double flares would never come out perfectly no matter how careful I was.  I found that there was too much play in many of the parts required to make the inverted double brake line flare.  Oh well, I couldn’t be too disappointed as I only paid $25 for the kit.  Now there is good in everything.  I found this same kit would make a perfect ISO Metric bubble flare every time. 

ISO Metric bubble flare - An example of an in-expensive double flaring tool kit.  Great for single flares and the ISO Metric bubble flare.  This does not make a good double inverted flare.  There is too much play in several of the components.

ISO Metric bubble flare - An example of an in-expensive double flaring tool kit. Great for single flares and the ISO Metric bubble flare. This does not make a good double inverted flare. There is too much play in several of the components.

Having the ability to make good ISO Metric bubble flares,  I felt that purchasing pre-made brake lines longer then I required would be a compromise to this interesting hot rod task.

This first step was to plan a layout for the brake lines and then approximate the lengths of all needed brake lines.  Then I went off to see my friends at NAPA and purchased what I needed to completed the job.  My intention is to shorten the lines I purchased from NAPA to the exact length required for the 1929 Ford roadster hot rod.

In order to create perfectly shaped brake lines, I used 0.125 inch ( 1/8th”) wire and created the required shapes for all brake lines.  These then became templates for the actual brake lines.  Carefully measuring all of the templates, all brake lines were cut to size allowing an extra 0.25 inches ( ¼” inch) for the bubble flare.   Once the tubing was cut, I used a soft wire wheel on the stationary grinder to de-burr the cut tubing.  This is fast and produces a nicely finished cut tube.  Of course you can also use the de-burring tool usually supplied with the flaring  tool kit, but with the cheaper kit I purchased, I found that it did not work all that well.   

ISO Metric bubble flare - An example of a wire template for accurate brake line bending.  A 0.125" or 1/8" wire was used to pre-shape the actual brake line.  This is a real time saving tip.

ISO Metric bubble flare - An example of a wire template for accurate brake line bending. A 0.125" or 1/8" wire was used to pre-shape the actual brake line. This is a real time saving tip.

The next most important step is to install the brake line fittings with the correct orientation.  Now mount the brake tubing into the flaring bar such that the freshly cut tubing is facing the flat side of the flaring bar and the flat side of the flaring bar is facing in an upward direction.   For 0.1875 inch (3/16”) tubing leave about 0.25 inch (1/4”) exposed from the face of the flaring bar.

ISO Metric bubble flare - Getting ready to make the ISO Metric bubble flare.  The flat side of the flaring bar is facing upwards and about 0.25" or 1/4" of the 0.1875" or 3/16" tubing is exposed from the face of the flaring bar.  The flaring bar needs to be firmly tightened to prevent any movement during the flaring process.

ISO Metric bubble flare - Getting ready to make the ISO Metric bubble flare. The flat side of the flaring bar is facing upwards and about 0.25" or 1/4" of the 0.1875" or 3/16" tubing is exposed from the face of the flaring bar. The flaring bar needs to be firmly tightened to prevent any movement during the flaring process.

For a quality flare, mount the flaring bar with the clamped tubing into a bench vice.  This will prevent un-necessary movement during the flaring process and make the alignment of the flaring yoke and inverted flaring adapter button easier.

ISO Metric bubble flare - Ready to make the flare.  The flaring yoke and inverted flaring adapter are set up squarely onto the clamped brake tubing.  Perfect alignment at this point in very important in order to make a perfect bubble flare.

ISO Metric bubble flare - Ready to make the flare. The flaring yoke and inverted flaring adapter are set up squarely onto the clamped brake tubing. Perfect alignment at this point in very important in order to make a perfect bubble flare.

Once everything is lined up perfectly, tighten the flaring yoke onto the tubing.  Do not over tighten the flaring yoke as excessive force will destroy the flare.  It would be a good idea to make a few practice flares on some scrap tubing before making the bubble flares on brake lines that will be used on a car.

With the flare complete, remove the flaring yoke, inverted flaring adapter button, and remove the tubing from the flaring bar.  I have noticed that the flaring process does reduce the hole opening on the tubing and would restrict the flow of brake fluid to a minor extent.  To optimized the brake line, I use a 0.125 inch (1/8”) drill bit to ream out the hole opening.  The brake line will need to be clamped in a bench vice for this optional step. 

ISO Metric bubble flare - optional step - drill the opening carefully with a 0.125" or 1/8" drill bit to open up the flare.  This will improve fluid flow once installed.

ISO Metric bubble flare - optional step - drill the opening carefully with a 0.125" or 1/8" drill bit to open up the flare. This will improve fluid flow once installed.

ISO Metric bubble flare - The complete bubble flare as used on the 1929 Ford roadster hot rod.

ISO Metric bubble flare - The complete bubble flare as used on the 1929 Ford roadster hot rod.

To make everything easier to visualize, I created a short video of making an ISO Metric bubble flare.  Just click on the link below to watch the video.

 Fast Tube
Fast Tube by Casper

I am going to give this a try and use Facebook for 1929fordhotrod.com.  Let’s see how this works out.  Below is a like button that you can use if you like the information on this website or just visit my Facebook page.


 

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